Lebanon is ridiculously expensive

For real, it is. I’ve always heard that Lebanon is expensive, but I never knew what that really meant until I went there myself. USD 1 roughly equals LBP 1.5. That seems cool to you, of course, if you’re not coming from a country with a high currency devaluation. But when it comes to pricing, that’s not always in your favor.

P.S: The bright side is that you can pay in either US dollars or Lebanese Liras, which takes us to the second point….

If you pay in dollars, don’t expect your change to be in dollars as well

Yes, if you decide to pay in US dollars, either pay the exact amount you’re being charged for or get ready to get more Liras. Of course, that doesn’t seem like a big deal now, but when you end up going back home with stacks of Liras, you’ll understand.

My advice is, exchange USD 100 and when you’re almost out of Liras and need more, exchange another 100, and so forth. This way, you make sure you never run out of cash, or dollars.

It’s a shop for style destination and not for great deals

Everyone thinks of Beirut as the Paris of the Middle East; when it comes to fashion, I mean. Sure, the Lebanese are incredibly stylish, but if you go to Lebanon with expectations it’s a shopping destination, it’s not the best. Don’t get me wrong, Beirut is full of amazing fashion stores, but again, it’s ridiculously expensive, remember?

So, let’s break this down into three categories. ONE: Designer stores; there are plenty of those, that’s a plus if you’re a fashion enthusiast who’s crazy about everything that’s ever walked the catwalk of a fashion week. However, we all know that’s breaking your bank. So, unless you care, you can shop in Beirut all you want.

TWO: High street fashion stores. So, H&M, Zara, and Aeropostale, yeah they’ve got those. However, they’re more expensive than in other countries like the US. Last but not least, THREE: Non-branded items. There are plenty of those stores with loads of unknown brands or even knock-offs. Bright side? They’re cheap as hell. Downside? Not the best quality out there. However, you can find some decent stuff if you put some effort into looking for something.

Moral of the story: If you’re going to Lebanon just to buy some pants from Zara, then you’d better get them from your hometown’s Zara. Meanwhile, if you’re on the look for a fancy Zuhair Murad evening gown, then Downtown Beirut is your go-to.

Go for a ‘service’ and not a taxi

Just like most places, taxis are more expensive in Lebanon. So, next time you call a cab, make sure to ask for service instead (pronounced “servees“). If you demand service, the driver shall pick up more passengers on the way while charging you each a fixed rate. Think of it as the Lebanese carpooling, and don’t be fooled, the rate would be LBP 2,000.

Tip: For more information on transportation in Lebanon, click here for the nitty-gritty things you must know.

Driving in Lebanon is more of an extreme sport

Roads in Lebanon are very tricky, especially if driving up the mountains. Not just that the roads are steep and keep going up on down, but the Lebanese drivers will normally surprise you with some Fast and Furious attitude. Who am I kidding, it’s probably another Mediterranean thing. Anyway, no matter how much of a great driver/navigator you are, driving around Lebanon will be a hassle. So, before you decided to rent a car, think twice and consider your options.

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I will do Beirut no justice if I tell you these are the only good places out there. So, instead, I’ll break down the information that I have, based on personal experience, as much as I can.

What Are the Best Restaurants in Beirut?

I’ve categorized your food options when it comes to Lebanese cuisine below, and in each category, you’ll find some must-try dishes and the best restaurants in Beirut that offer them.

Best Restaurants in Beirut for Street Food and Breakfast

Things You Need to Try:

• Falafel: Unlike the Egyptian ones, made of fava beans, the Lebanese falafel is made from deep-friend, ground chickpeas instead. So, it’s a whole different experience that you really must try.
• Msabaha: Hummus-based, the hearty dish is a cornerstone of the traditional Lebanese breakfast table.
• Manaa’ish: Another staple of the Lebanese cuisine is Manaa’ish. The dough served sliced or folded, can be filled with thyme or cheese. I personally love to order it with thyme and some extra chopped tomato.
• Lahme be A’ajine: As the name suggests, it’s another form of Manaa’ish, but filled with ground beef instead. The word “yummy” is an understatement.

Places I Recommend:

• BARBAR all the way! (Best manaa’ish in town)
• Falafel Sahyoun
• Zaatar w Zeit (for fancier options, but I love their lahme be a’ajine)
• Bayt Em Nazih

Best Restaurants in Beirut for Lunch/Dinner

Things You Need to Try:

• Fattoush: Mixed greens, tomatoes, and radish, with a strong hint of lime and pomegranate molasses. That, my dear foodies, is fattoush, my favorite Lebanese salad.
• Tabbouleh: Finely chopped parsley, with mint, tomatoes, onion, and bulgur. And of course, seasoned by salt, pepper, lime, and olive oil. That’s another popular choice of salad, known as tabbouleh.

• Kebbeh: Another staple of the Levantine cuisine are those patties/balls made of bulgur, ground meat, and onion.
• Lahm Ras Asfour: Small, fried meat cubes, soaking in a special sour sauce. I guarantee you’ll love it, but make sure to order it with rice to balance the taste.
• Chicken Liver with Pomegranate Molasses: Do I need to explain why this is a must-try?

• Kafta Sandwiches: Unlike the Egyptian kofta, where the meat is shaped into meatballs or elongated meatloaf, a kafta sandwich in Lebanon is round-shaped dough, lined with ground beef from the inside. Tastes, and looks, a lot like Egyptian hawawshi.

Pro tip: So, if the acidic/sour taste is your cup of tea, you’ll like food in Beirut. The Lebanese seem to fancy it.

Places I Recommend:

• Sandwich w Nos: This place is sandwich heaven.
• Malak Al Tawouk: For the best tawouk your taste buds will ever come across.
• Al Falamanki: Good food with a priceless view, overlooking the famed Penguin rocks of Raouche.
• Loris: Pricey, but definitely my favorite in Lebanon. Loris definitely wins when it comes to food and service.

Pro tip: For more options for food in Beirut, Zaitunay Bay has a handful of restaurants with a view, but pricey ones. On the other hand, Bliss street and Hamra boast a wide variety of restaurants of all sorts and cuisines. You can dine at places like Deek Duke, Roadster, or Sandwich w Nos.

For Your Sweet Tooth

• Sam’s: Both a diner and a mart, Sam’s just has everything; from satisfying your manaa’ish cravings and their salad bar to their colorful ice-cream display and dessert options. I tried their Nutella crepes and I’d have to say, they were pretty generous with the chocolate spread to the extent that my tummy and I both left happy.

• Tonino: No matter how Sam’s, or anyone else’s, crepes may be good, Tonino’s are by far the best I’ve ever had (apart from mine and those I had in France). I’ve had the one with Nutella, Kinder, and Hershey’s filling and it was OH EHM GEE! I’d do anything to have one more bite of that now.

Bonus tip: For incredible burgers, put some effort and head to Munchease. It’s only a 10-minute drive from Beirut and totally worth it.

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• Is This Hostel in Beirut for Solo Travelers?
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So, buckle up because our first stop is… Harissa!

The Lady of Lebanon is a Marian shrine, considered an iconic pilgrimage site that you must visit when in Lebanon.

How to go? Take a mini-bus from Beirut and it’ll drop you off on the Autostrad highway next to Burger King. From there, either get a cab to take you up there or walk to the nearby téléfrique station. I highly recommend the latter option as it gives you an astonishing aerial view of the Lebanese mountains.

When you reach the top, light a candle, then climb the stairs and try to take a selfie with the landmark. For more information about opening hours and ticketing, click here.

Pro tip: Try not to go on official holidays as the queue tends to get crazy.

Next stop: Jeita Grotto

Jeita Grotto is by far one of mother nature’s mind-blowing gifts. Visiting the cave is a must when in Lebanon and an essential part of your day trip from Beirut. The underground two-level cave will surely make you stand in awe against the stunning stalagmites and stalactites.

Unfortunately, mobile phones and cameras are not allowed inside, so I could document the moment. However, it’ll surely be forever engraved in my head.

How to go? Jeita Grotto is only accessible by car. So, either rent a car or bring on your haggling skills to land a good deal with a cab driver to take you there and wait for you.

Pro tip: Skip the téléfrique this time and walk to the caves instead to save the time you’d lose standing in line.

Final stop: Jbeil… or is it Byblos?

The ancient Phoenician port city is one of the oldest cities in the world, and one of the most beautiful too. The vibes there are magnificent and you really shouldn’t miss it.

FUN FACT: The city actually has two names; Jbeil and Byblos. It was formerly known as Byblos for the Greeks and Byblus for the Romans, and currently, it goes by its Arabic name, Jbeil.

How to go? By car or Uber!

What to do there?

• Walk around the old souk: There, you can buy some local souvenirs and sit a bar or restaurant for a quick break.
• Visit the Byblos Castle: The Crusader castle with a mesmerizing sea view is a must-visit.
• Take a stroll by the port: Head to the port at sunset for a breather. Enjoy the view and maybe sit at one of the cafés there.

Pro tip: Try to attend the Byblos International Festival, a music festival that normally takes place from mid-July to mid-August every year.

You might also like:

• Transportation in Lebanon 101
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I was staying at Hamra Urban Gardens, a hostel in the heart of Hamra. As I went for a walk on my first day, a gigantic mural of the Lebanese legend, Sabah, caught my attention. The mural was as big as the building it was painted on, the Assaf building on Hamra street. The portrait of the iconic singer and actress was filled with Arabic calligraphy details, carefully drawn with love four years ago by artist Yazan Halwani. It’s ironic, because the ‘Eternal Sabah’ mural was, in fact, not just the first one I lay my eyes on in Beirut, but it’s also where it all began.

‘Eternal Sabah’ was the very first mural by Ahla Fawda, an NGO that uses joy as a tool to make a change. Later on, this year, Art of Change would come into the picture, adding more murals to Hamra’s skyline.

Art of Change is an initiative that aims to shed light on the art scene and the positivity it could bring. The project is the birth of a collaboration between Ahla Fawda and Where Theres Walls, an international collective of artists.

In only three months, Art of Change added nine more murals, also in Hamra, and more is yet to come.

Check out my favorites, and the stories behind them, below:

This mural of Salvador Dali is courtesy of an artist that goes by the name Simple G. You can find it at the entrance of the Assaf building.

The next one celebrates women in leadership in colorful ways. It was, in fact, painted in support of the Lebanese Association for Democratic Elections’ (LADE) campaign for women empowerment.

The masterpiece is a collaboration between Eli Zaarour, who goes by his street name Zed40, and Lea Bou Habib. Zed40 has been a muralist for 10 years, who’ve painted all over Europe, and this mural is his second in Hamra. As for Lea, this is actually her very first mural. Not just that, but the mural’s size, makes it the largest and highest one to be ever painted by a woman in Lebanon. You can find the mural on Makdessi street.

Moving on to my personal favorite, this one is a tribute for the late Chehab men, the very last brass pan polishers in the Ras Beirut. Dedicating a mural to the lost craftsmanship documents a cornerstone of the Lebanese culture, preserving it in the form of art. You can find the mural at the end of Hamra street, where there’s a crossroad between Kuwait and Tannoukhiyen streets.

Check out more of the street art of Beirut below:

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That being said, I decided to share my two cents about the place. So, here’s my detailed, honest review.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you purchase through my link at no extra cost to you. Please see full disclosure for more information.

Location

Looking for a hostel in Beirut that’s close to most of the city’s attractions? Well, HUG is strategically located in the heart of Hamra, one of Beirut’s most popular neighborhoods. It’s the Lebanese capital’s hottest commercial district, full of all sorts of dining options and shopping stores.

Address: Abdel Baki St, Hamra, Beirut, Lebanon

Dorm Room

I stayed at an ensuite 6-bed female dorm. Each bed had a curtain to completely block the light and a night lamp on the inside. Although that seems great if you’re staying in the lower bunk and your fellow dormmate on the upper one has the lights on, you could see its reflection on the wall. The bunks, however, were very spacious and comfy. There was also a locker-like compartment under the pillow to keep valuables.

Each bed was assigned a small closet space that stored a lot. It consisted of a rack with hangers, with enough space for you to place your drawers below, as well as two drawers.

The room was air-conditioned and came with a sofa and a mini-bar. Housekeeping also came in every day to clean the bathroom, the room, and make the beds.

As for the bathroom, it had a stand-up shower, a toilet (of course), and a large mirror by the sink with a backsplash to place your toiletries. Housekeeping normally changed two small towels, along with toilet paper, every day. So, you will need to bring your own large towel.

Tip for Arabs: You’d better bring your portable shatafa. The toilets aren’t equipped with any!

Facilities

• Restaurant: “Em Nazih” is accessible to both HUG guests and non-guests. There’s an open buffet for breakfast every day from 8 am to 11 am, serving authentic Lebanese cuisine. Unfortunately, I didn’t really like the breakfast options; there wasn’t much of a variety. I preferred to grab something from Barbar (a famous Lebanese street food chain) on the go instead. There were also events there on weekend nights.
• Rooftop Pool Bar: This was definitely my favorite part of the hostel. Whenever I stayed in Beirut or had some free time during the day, I went for a dip. The main pool was medium-sized and the seating area had chaise lounges, hammocks, and wooden dining tables. The place was family-friendly, so there was a small children’s pool. As for the bar, it didn’t just serve hard and soft drinks, it also served a fine variety of mid-day snacks and meals. I personally loved their chips and dips (salsa, sour cream, and guacamole). Every guest gets a free complimentary drink from the bar as well. It’s also worth mentioning that the rooftop pool bar is accessible to outsiders for LBP 15,000 on weekdays and LBP 20,000 on weekends.

• Gym: I honestly didn’t try out the gym. However, for those staying for longer periods, it’s a great option if you’re the active type, especially that it’s open 24/7.
• Travel Board: Traveling solo? Don’t worry about it. There’s a super cool mirror at the reception area where travelers can write their travel plans and leave their WhatsApp numbers. So, if you’re looking for a travel buddy, you’d easily find yours by joining someone or leaving your own plans. It’s definitely a great way to socialize and make new like-minded friends! HUG also offers pre-planned day trips, however, I honestly found them super expensive and planned my own.

Service

Overall, the service was pretty neat and the staff was very friendly and cooperative.

Price

I booked in mid-August, during the Eid holiday, and paid USD 25 a night, including breakfast and taxes. There are definitely much cheaper hostels, however, for me, that’s an ideal price as I prioritize cleanliness, safety, and location. Plus, having the facilities it has, I personally think it’s a great deal. Payment is acceptable in cash (USD or LBP) and debit/credit cars.

General Information

• There’s free wifi all over the hostel and it’s highly reliable and fast. So, if you’re a digital nomad who needs to get some work done or if you just don’t want to finish your data plan, don’t fret.
• Check-in starts from 2 pm and check-out has to be before noon. Also, note that the reception desk is open 24/hours and there’s no curfew.

Overview

Overall, I definitely enjoyed my stay at this hostel in Beirut and would surely recommend it to you guys! Other than its great location, refreshing ambiance, and comfortable stay, what I liked the most was that it offered a friendly environment for travelers to socialize. So, whether you’re traveling with friends or on your own, you’ll never feel alone!

It may be a hostel in Beirut, but it really reminded me of the international chain of Generator Hostels, on a smaller scale though. Seems like HUG meets international standards as well.

How to Book?

You can easily make a reservation through Booking.com.

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You might like:

• Best Restaurants in Beirut: Where and What to Eat?
• Transportation in Lebanon 101

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This post may contain affiliate links, which means I will earn a small commission if you purchase through my link at no extra cost to you. Please see full disclosure for more information.

Transportation in Lebanon: How to Get Around in Beirut

First things first, let’s talk about your commuting options in the Lebanese capital, Beirut.

#1 Taxi/Service

The obvious option is getting a cab, but like most countries; especially in a pricey one like Lebanon, Taxis are not cheap. That’s why you’d either jump to option #2 or act more like a local and less like a tourist. If the latter tickles your fancy, then you should tell your driver the magic word that’ll drastically drop the asking fee. This magic word is “service”.

Now what does that mean? If you stop a taxi, you’ll get a ride alone and will have to pay for what the driver would charge you. On the other hand, if you demand a “service” (pronounced ‘servees‘ in Arabic), the driver would have the ability to pick up more passengers on the way while charging each of you a fixed rate. Think of it as Lebanese carpooling. Just don’t be fooled, the rate would be LBP 2,000.

P.S: Bear in mind that when covering a long distance or going to a hot spot; such as Mar Mikhael, the driver will try to talk you into paying two services (LBP 4,000) instead of one. Your good deal is settling for LBP 3,000.

DON’T FORGET TO GET INSURED

#2 Ride-hailing Apps

The two most common apps in the region, Uber and Careem, are also available as means of transportation in Lebanon. It’s definitely a cheaper option than taxis, but the service is much cheaper than both. It probably goes down to whether you’re traveling solo or with friends, as well as the destination. For instance, I found it easier to call an Uber when I was heading to or from the airport. However, getting around Beirut, I just got myself a service, even if I had a companion.

#3 Walking

Beirut is a very small city and the best way to get the most out of it is to walk around. Beirut is better explored on foot and you can cover most of it in one day. And if you’re into photography like myself, you’ll stumble upon lots of cool frames, as well as hidden gems. Plus, walking is FREE and good for your body!

Transportation in Lebanon: Traveling From Beirut

As I said before, Lebanon is a pretty small country, so going on day trips is a must to make the best out of your trip. There’s so much to see and visit in Lebanon and staying in Beirut for the whole trip would be a waste of all the beautiful sceneries you could enjoy. But how can you hit the road without having to pay a fortune for organized tours? Easy – you just need to get the gist of transportation in Lebanon and you’re good to go!

#1 Renting a car in Lebanon

If you have an international driver’s license, you can rent a car. Just make sure you have internet for GPS or offline maps downloaded on your phone. If you’re a solo traveler, try to put a group together at your hostel so you could split the cost of rent and gas.

Downside: Roads in Lebanon are very tricky, especially if driving up the mountains. Only locals are used to that and no matter how much of a great driver/navigator you are, driving around Lebanon can be a hassle.

#2 Public Transportation in Lebanon

Luckily, you can hop on a mini-van at any of the bus stops and head to your desired destination. Here’s a list of the places you can easily go to via public transportation:

• Jounieh (the van will drop you off on the Autostrad highway, so to go to Harissa, you should get a taxi/Uber from there to the Telefrique drop-off).
• Sidon
• Tyre
• Byblos (also known as Jbeil)
• Tripoli

Here are the bus stations in Beirut:

• Cola
• Charles Helou
• Kuwait Embassy
• City Mall

Moving on to the cost; that actually varies according to the distance covered. For instance, from Beirut to Sidon, I paid LBP 2,000, and from Sidon to Tyre, I paid another LBP 2,000. However, on my way back from Tyre to Beirut, I paid LBP 5,000. Either way, it’s much cheaper than other options.

Get a Driver

You can also get a driver with a car. It’s a convenient alternative as locals know the roads better as I told you before, but since it’s a hefty one, you’d better save it for places where you can’t go via public transportation. Like where? Like Baalbeck or the Cedar forests. You should also gather a group for such day trips as the driver’s pay will cost you around USD 75-100 for a round-trip (he also waits for you).

P.S: All previously mentioned prices are subject to change due to inflation and other economic factors.

Don’t Forget Your Travel Insurance!

Travel (solo or not) isn’t always rainbows and butterflies – things might go down south sometimes. You might fall ill or lose your luggage, and that’s when you’ll thank me for having your back covered with travel insurance.

SafetyWing offers different travel insurance packages, tailored to your needs, but their Nomad Insurance is my favorite option.

This travel medical insurance is perfect for frequent travelers. It covers lost checked luggage, travel delay, doctors, hospitals, and more. It even covers the COVID-19 emergency quarantine period if deemed necessary by a physician.

Explore SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance Essential and Complete plans now.

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